Thrifting How-To, part deux

For those with the basics of thrifting under their belts, here are some further tips I have to share on how to make your thrifting experience successful:

Searching for a bargain in a sea of junk? Read my tips - I hope they help your chances!

1. Go Often, Go Early. Early in the day, or preferably at opening, is always a good move. If you have a favourite thrift store that you visit often enough, you may even find yourself privy to the restocking schedule (assuming there is one), or you may make friends with an employee who might do you a favour (hold something for you for the day, or keep an eye out for a specific item, for example). If you go often enough, you don't need to worry about missing a sale - a terrible feeling indeed (I know whereof I speak... I missed a 50% clothing sale at the Heils-Armee, though I did manage to snag 2 Fr. electric blue trousers. I wish I had been there earlier as it was so picked over!). Also, the more often you go, the more practice you get, and the better you will be at spotting the must-haves from the better-leave-it-for-the-next-person-items.
2. Go to more than one store. The more stores you have 'in rotation', the better your odds will be for finding the right items for you. I've gone to virtually every easily-accessible-by-public-transport second-hand store in the area. It was a fun way to get to know other neighbourhoods and take different buses and tramlines! My favourite neighbourhood of all really is the Ausser-Sihl area (Werd, Stauffacher) because as of 2nd June 2014, there will be 3 CARITAS clothing stores (new concept store), 1 CARITAS homeware store, and the infamous Brockiland, which is flanked by antique shops and a few other retro-offerings. In one trip, I typically hit up 3 stores, which makes for a higher degree of success. There are also a couple of other gems within walking distance (FiftiesPlus, Famos, Berta.. more on these later). Hardbrücke is also good hunting ground as there is both a CARITAS and the Zürich Heils-Armee, as well as a few trendy retro furniture places.
3. Check the Website. The Heils-Armee has seasonal 'events' (spezialmärkte) where they put out fall stock or Christmas items, etc. Summer clothing came out on the 1st of March this year (I was there!), and the improvement of the clothing on the rack (in terms of desirability and quality) drastically improved from the week before. Prices weren't super low, but it's important to keep the price in context with what you'd be paying new-from-retail. Sometimes the better deal isn't the cheapest one. I splurged on a 20 Fr. blouse that has garnered many compliments and has turned out to be one of my most-worn garments this season. 20 Fr. isn't a ton of money, especially when compared to new-from-retail pricing. But it's a lot more than the 1 Fr. t-shirts and tanks I got from 'cheap' CARITAS!
4. Bring a List, and have Patience. I have a list of desired 'pieces' (mostly clothing, but there's also a teapot in that list and the 'right' gravy boat!) that I keep in a Memo on my smart phone. Currently it includes a plaid shirt in autumnal tones (for wearing under a denim blazer I already have), a chunky turquoise necklace, a big-bead red necklace, navy and cream silk shirts, bold printed dress, and a tea-length skirt. Most things are for completing outfits I mostly have together, or getting more mileage out of stuff I have but can't wear with many other items. Sadly, most of these things have been on the list for months... it can be quite frustrating when they're not easy to come by! But patience is a virtue after all, and as I mentioned in point #2, some seasonal clothes are put out all in one go (mark your calendars now - 6th September is the special market for Winter Clothing at the Heils-Armee! And if I remember correctly, the Summer Clothing market actually opened a day earlier than posted... you've been warned!). Lists can also help if you're struggling to stick to a budget or turn down impulse buys. I've got so many things on my list that I can't keep them all in my head, and it also helps to remind myself how I'd like to spend my clothing budget when faced with a do-I-or-don't-I dilemma.
5. Shop every rack, every shelf, in every department. This one takes a bit of determination and diligence, and I don't always follow it. But so often things are misfiled (I once bought a favourite t-shirt that was erroneously in the kid's racks!), and some people stash clothing for later in strange places ("finders, keepers" is the rule in thrifting, I think). Sometimes staff legitimately don't know what the item is, and so it's worth your time (if you've got it) to leave no stone unturned. This also applies to clothing racks - flip through everything, don't just pick and choose what first catches your eye (exception being if you're tight on time). And don't forget to scope out the rejected try-on rack (usually right next to the change room).
6. Wear the Uniform. I've read this on a few other thrifters' blogs, and I thought some took it to rather silly extremes. So I'm going to water down my recommendations in contrast, but the basic essence remains the same. NOT ALL STORES HAVE CHANGING ROOMS, and the 'cheap' CARITAS and the one at Hardbrücke only have one apiece. And if you go on a special sale day at the Heils-Armee, the two they have will be full or have line-ups. Worse, there was a man at the Oerlikon CARITAS who kept peeping past the curtain into my change-room... The solution is to wear tight-fitting clothes that can accommodate clothing over top. Some say a spandex cat-suit is your best friend, but I advise the following: a tight-fitting t-shirt or tank in neutral tones (optional, but you don't want to be distracted by severe clashing!), a cardigan, and slip-on, slip-off shoes. I usually just wear jeans and if I find pants that I think will fit (I hold them to my waist and hips), I usually wait in line to try them on. I don't think it's a great idea to mess around with the fit of pants. However, a long tunic and a pair of tights might give you the luxury of slipping them on over top. I tend to buy more tops than bottoms, so I don't wear tights out shopping. Another recommendation is an over-the-shoulder bag (think: non-bulky purse for streamlining!), snacks and water so you don't have to stop for food and drink. I don't tend to bother with the rations myself - see my 'ice cream philosophy' in the "Thrifting How To for N00bs". :)
7. Shop the Label, or more correctly, DON'T Shop the Label. There are really two camps on this point, and I'll give you both of them. The first is to shop for the best brand names and eschew all others. Go for the designer brands, the upscale retailer's labels, etc. The thought is here that you're getting something of better quality and tailoring, and that you shouldn't settle for anything but the best of the best. The other camp says screw the label, look for quality independently of what the label says, and get what you like and what suits, rather than what you've been conditioned to believe is the superior garment (but may not be). I don't have strong feelings either way, except that I do tend to make a decision on the garment based partly on the label. If it's H&M, I'll look very carefully for hidden signs of wear or a lack of durability - chances are it's not made to last (but there are always exceptions, so treat each item as a case-by-case basis). I've been tempted to buy something because, "OMG, it's DKNY!"... but if it isn't doing your figure any favours, and it's maybe not-quite-right, it doesn't matter how much of a great deal it is - don't buy it. Same goes for "New With Label" pieces - just because it was 60 Fr. and now it's 15 Fr., doesn't mean it's worth the 15 Fr. That's a hard one to ignore at times, because we seem to be so conditioned to get excited over 'savings'. Try to keep in mind the bottom line - is this garment worth the current price tag or not? And, perhaps it's a more negative viewpoint but hey - WHY DIDN'T IT SELL AT FULL PRICE IN THE ORIGINAL SHOP? Was it poorly made? Flawed? Just plain ugly? (For those of you familiar with Winners, the Canadian chain, this is the perfect example - yes, it's 20-50% less than it was. But it didn't SELL, and sometimes it's very evident why!).
   
   

   

   You don't want to be playing 'nurse' to your new treasure so soon (see below!). From the CARITAS homeware store window on Birmensdorferstrasse, circa March 2014.

   
   
   Don't buy anything with a stain or a hole (my opinion, anyway), or dry-clean only items that you can't handwash (will cost a fortune for cleaning in our city! Unlikely to be worth it!), and don't buy anything that will need professional alteration and/or tailoring (which could very well make the garment or item not worthwhile with a cost-benefit analysis). Other people may feel differently, but that's my view. :)
   
   Some people bring Shout wipes (or other stain-removing wipes) and try it out on the stain. If it budges, they buy it, and if it remains, they skip it. I find this a bit tacky; to chemically treat a garment you haven't purchased seems a little presumptuous to me! Especially when the stain remover can potentially damage the fabric. But if you have no qualms about this, then there's a free tip for you. :) 
   
   
   Don't buy anything that's already pilling. The great beauty of thrifting is that it automatically selects for "non-disposable fashion"; if something has been worn, washed, worn ad libidum and it still looks good, chances are it has a lot of life left in it still. But a garment that already has those pilly little balls of shedding fibres on it (check under the arms) is only going to get worse.
   
   I also tend to be cautious in purchasing something that is a 'trend' and not a 'classic' piece - don't spend too much money on something that has a limited fashion lifespan. And often it helps me to stand there and stare at the garment while I think of what I can wear it with, or if it's an item how I will use it and when and how often and where I'll store it in the meantime. It must be a perfect fit in all these aspects! 
   
   

   

   Save yourself a headache by following the "Thrifting Rules"! Also from the CARITAS homeware store window on Birmensdorferstrasse, circa March 2014.

   
   Check the stitching, too - there was a "New With Labels" tunic at the Heils-Armee yesterday that was only 6 Fr. and kind of cute. But a quick look at the seams on the shoulders told me that it really wasn't built to last - the stitches were already pulling away from the fabric. It could be that the fabric was too cheap, or the stitching poorly done, but whatever the cause was the final outcome was the same: give it a miss!
   
   And if it smells, it will likely continue to smell (sometimes there's not enough FeBreeze in the world to get rid of the stank!). Don't buy the stinky stuff. And do be cautious of things like bed bugs - check over your clothing carefully and wash your new belongings when you get home. (I put old books in the freezer for at least 3 weeks, after I found a mite scurrying between the pages as I read!).
   
   
   Sometimes, seasoned Thrifters (yes, that's a title! Self-pronounced, but still valid!) recommend bargaining.
   
   
   I do NOT recommend haggling or bargaining in Zürich thrift stores.
   
   
   Personally, it's not my style to try to get an even bigger discount from a CHARITY-run shop. So I wouldn't do this at Heils-Armee or CARITAS, ever (I'm pretty sure both have policies against it, anyway).
    

   

   The grey shirt was 5 Fr., and each of the others were 1 Fr. at CARITAS. 1 Fr.! I couldn't imagine even wanting to bargain at this price! Let the charities make their money: they have to offset the overhead costs of running a retail outlet in Zürich. Imagine the cost of the store's rent alone! :)

   
   
   Brockiland is one of the possible places to haggle. I know a very good-looking, suave young man who haggles (very successfully - big discounts!) with the lady at the Brockiland downtown. I couldn't even get her to crack a smile, and I have never seen a discount or even a slightly softer deal. Then she got all chatty and smiley with the cute 20-something guy in line behind me. Ah. Sexism. ;) (More on Brockiland's pricing system in an upcoming post!).
   
   
   If you're the sort who loves to bargain, I say proceed, but with extreme caution. Some places must have to deal with some real BS, and you'll find that some employees are inherently mistrustful of you (in the absence of any evidence to support this view!). Hang around any thrift store long enough and you'll see some of the most astonishing behaviour amongst customers! (Crazy old people at Brockiland (either location) are the best example... I had a lady pull a necklace out of my basket while I stood in line and rub it on her teeth before disparaging the pearls as fake (DUH! It cost 2 Fr.!) and throwing them angrily back at me!).
    

   

   This is the necklace the crazy old bat put in her mouth!

   
   
   I also don't shop on Saturdays, if I have the option. I know that's not always possible, given work schedules, but if you have a weekday free (be cautious on Mondays, as many places will be closed), I highly recommend starting it early and at the thrift store. ;) You'll have enough 'competition' and weird pushy people during the week - the weekends are enough to make me crazy!
   
   
   Another tip is to know about the special discounts. For example, CARITAS has a KulturLegi discount of 50%. If you have a limited budget, you can apply for this program, which offers many discounts in Zürich. Many times, students, seniors and the disabled are also entitled to further discounts. Don't be afraid to ask if there is a discount available, or do your homework and check the websites. Don't forget to bring ID for proof of your age, student-status or disability. 
   
   
   I don't currently qualify for any discounts, but I still manage to stretch my Franken very far without. ;)
   
   

   

   Bought on a chilly and wet spring day. No chance of wearing it for months! From the 'cheap' CARITAS (kleider netto) on Birmensdorferstrasse, circa March 2014.

   

   Bought on the same chilly and wet spring day! More of a fall/winter item, right? :) From the 'cheap' CARITAS (kleider netto) on Birmensdorferstrasse, circa March 2014.

   
   
   Another tip I can give is to shop out of season. It's easy to shop for the current season, and that's not a bad thing. But if it's a blisteringly hot summer's day, try to take a look at the winter sweaters and dark autumn colours (despite any natural aversion, and assuming they're stocked!). I've purchased some great things at the 'wrong time of year' probably because there were less people looking for these items at the same time. If you can put yourself in a mind-set where you can look for summer items in the winter or spring items in the fall, you might well give yourself an advantage. It can be hard to do, though. Sometimes I just can't get myself into the mood, but the times I did have been worthwhile.
   
   
   Practicing "Good Thrifting Karma" is another often-quoted tip. Here are some guidelines I think fit under this heading:
   • Don't be cheap with for-charity shops (the money helps so many people, and if you're shopping as a hobbyist, then you can afford to give a little or maybe even a lot!)
   • Donate clothes of your own to your preferred shops or causes
   • Don't shove that competitive B back when she tries to take-over the rack you're perusing like Putin-all-over-Crimea!
   • If you find something awesome that doesn't work for you, leave it somewhere visible (end of a rack, for example) for the next Thrifter
   • ALWAYS rehang your rejected try-ons nicely on the hangers, as if you worked there yourself (if you go often enough, the staff will recognize you. You DON'T want to be known as that 'pig' that always leaves a mess behind! It cannot possibly work to your advantage!)
   • Return your rejected try-ons to the original racks yourself, provided you know where you found them!
   • BYOB - bring your own bag to save their stash, or add to a pre-existing shopping bag rather than taking a new one
   • Bring smallish bills (don't make someone give you change for a 100 if you spend 5, if you can help it!)
   • Use your "Bitte" and "Danke"'s and remember to smile! Good manners are rewarding!
   • Give support to other shoppers (if someone asks your opinion on something, give it honestly and kindly. Let someone go ahead of you in the line if you have time or less items. Watch someone's basket for them. It feels so good to be on the receiving end of this - be sure to give back!) 
    

That's about it in terms of my general thrifting tips! In Summary, here are the most important key points:

1. Go Often and Early to Multiple Stores
2. Have a List and Have Patience in Fulfilling that List!
3. Look for QUALITY and LONGEVITY in the garment or item
4. Practice due diligence (check the website (if they have one), check every rack, rehang your rejected try-ons nicely and return them to the original rack when you can, bring cash and stick to a budget)
5. Be the Thrifter you'd like others to be! Set the example for grace and camaraderie! Give cheerfully to charity organizations and remember your manners

'Til Next Time!

TiZ